Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
